A week short of being in El Salvador for 3 months and I still find myself asking myself this question. Life here never stops and sometimes it’s hard to believe that what’s happening is real. We have been so busy ever since the rain stopped and for this reason I haven’t posted a blog in a very very long time. A lot has happened since I last wrote, a lot of things that I can’t even think of right now because they feel like they happened so long ago.
I also won’t bore you with every minute detail and instead will focus on a few major events.
#1 I guess the first big thing I’ve done recently is travel to Nicaragua for a week. It was a much-needed break but it was also very weird to have free time. I think I’ve forgotten how to do things at my own pace and on my own schedule. By the end of vacation I had definitely figured it out though. I spent the week hanging out with some awesome Jesuit Volunteers, swimming in a lake over a volcano crater, and stumbling upon a deserted beach in a quiet town one afternoon. My vacation was very laid back but it was also definitely an adventure. Crossing the Nicaraguan and Honduran borders (once in a bicycle), eating street food (you know the kind they always tell us not to eat), and taking many many many busses were just a few of the many things I did where I often found myself thinking, is this really happening? I must admit though I am thoroughly impressed with my ability to actually travel through a country that speaks a language that is not my own. If I could have one wish in the world it would be to be fluent in Spanish (this probably isn’t my biggest wish but I think you get the point). I’m not there yet but I’m working on it and I think my week in Nicaragua was definitely proof that I can hold my own in a conversation. I can ask for directions, I can order food, I can make friends…all in Spanish. I’ve been thinking a lot here how cool it is that there is now a whole new group of people I can communicate with, befriend, an learn from.

Laguna de Apoyo - lake in a volcano crater!
Part of our hostel
Beautiful sunset
One of the many old churches in León
Pacific Ocean
Drive home
#2 I finally was able to make it to the Cathedral and Monseñor Romero’s crypt in the city. It’s bothered me a lot that I hadn’t had the chance to visit the body of the man that continues to define this country and these amazing people. We went on a Sunday morning so there were obviously a ton of people attending the multiple masses, visiting the crypt, receiving confirmation, and selling crosses and shirts with the face of Romero outside. The mass we attended was celebrating the human rights movement that has been occurring in El Salvador for the past few years. To me faith and religion have always been funny things. Back home in the US it has always seemed so forced, so routine, so standard. Here though faith is something different. Faith is what keeps people going. Faith is all people have to live by. “Primero Dios” (God willing) and “Gracias a Dios” (Thanks be to God) are two of the most common phrases used here. God fills the lives of so many people here at every moment of every day in a way that is absolutely beautiful. It’s not forced, the people simply choose to devote their lives to this power and put full trust in him. So many people come not to stand before Romero but beside him. Romero lived his life WITH the people. He was archbishop but he did not see himself as better. “And he will rise up with the people”. These words describe perfectly the faith that exists in El Salvador. The devotion the Salvadorans have is not over the top, it is not individualist; it is raw, natural, communal. Being able to go to mass at the Cathedral was an amazing experience. I was surrounded by so many people who just wanted to shake our hands and give us their blessings. I felt like I belonged in El Salvador. I felt like I knew what it means to be a Salvadoran. I felt the struggles of the past and I felt the hope for the future. After our visit to the Cathedral we headed over to a big park in the city where there is a monument dedicated to all those killed or disappeared during the war. As I’m sure I’ve said before, talk of the war is very common here; it is still very relevant and everyone we have met has a personal story of their experience during the war. The monument very much resembles something you would see in Washington D.C. A giant wall with name after name carved into the black stone. What was different about this monument though was that I knew names on the wall, not just Oscar Romero and Rutillo Grande but the names of the parents, the brothers and sisters of people I have met. I’ve been to some of the massacre sites listed on the wall. They aren’t just names anymore, they are people. In a way I was upset that I hadn’t visited these sites sooner but I think they mean so much more now that I’ve spent so much time in El Salvador and really understand what this country is all about.

Romero's tomb
The Cathedral
War Monument
"The people should not fear the government, the government should fear the people"
#3 – The last update I have is probably the most important. It is about praxis and the current situation at La Javia. These past few weeks at praxis have been absolutely amazing. Between the rain and vacation we’ve lost a lot of time. Katie, Ella, and I have an infinite desire to be at La Javia and Angelica and Ana have graciously offered us their hammocks to live in for the rest of our lives (an offer that is really hard to pass up). We’ve been trying really hard to embrace every moment and every day at praxis. November 2
nd was an especially amazing day. On November 2
nd the entire country celebrated Dia de los Difuntos or All Souls Day. On this day everyone goes to the cemetery in order to put flowers on the graves of their loved ones. It’s really important to realize though that cemeteries are very different here and the idea of putting flowers on a grave is much than placing a bouquet on a stone. Cemeteries in El Salvador are very colorful and very crowded. Crosses of blue, red, and purple stand on top of each other, filling up every space possible. The cemeteries are already very colorful but on Dia de los Dinfuntos they become even more colorful and decorated. People come from all over bringing handmade paper flowers and decorations that they then drape over the grave. Dia de los Disfuntos is not a sad day; it’s a day for celebrating life, spending time with family, and eating papusas and ice cream in the street. The La Javia and Zacamil crew as well as 2 other students from my program had the opportunity to hop in the back of a pickup with all of Angelica’s family and head to the cemetery to visit the graves of Angelica’s mother and grandmother. At first we felt a little uncomfortable intruding on such an important family moment but of course Angelica had to remind us, “now you are family too.” I love Angelica and her family so much and being able to take part in such an important tradition with them was such an incredible experience.



Despite the great days I’ve been having at praxis the reality is La Javia and Tepecoyo are still struggling after the rain. The road we take to praxis is still in pretty bad shape. The concrete bridge that we used to take everyday is still floating in the river below and the roads are still filled with trees and dirt from the mud slides. For awhile an electrical line was floating in the river but that has now been fixed; however, that is the only solid change I have witnessed in terms of clean up and restoration. The comedor had to be shut down for awhile because there was no water but now the water comes back every few days for a couple of hours so Angelica is able to collect water in bins to use to cook food for the comedor. After a meeting with many of the moms’ of the community Angelica decided she would try to run the comedor through the end of November. The kids in Tepecoyo are almost done with school and typically the comedor stops when they stop school but due to lost time Angelica is hoping to continue providing meals to the community. It is apparent that many of the people in the community lost weight during the rain because they were not eating and they are still fighting to get healthy again. This is a bit difficult though when the water the people are drinking is not clean. Overall the situation in La Javia has improved, mainly because the sun has been shining and rivers aren’t flowing through the community anymore but there is still a lot of work to be done.
I really would just like to say thank you all for all of the monetary as well as emotional support you have given me in these past few weeks. I know for certain that I would have had a very hard time making it through these past few weeks if it were not for all of the love from back home. I can also speak for Angelica and say that donations being made have been very helpful. Kids are once again eating in the comedor and this is all Angelica wants in the world, to serve others and provide for her community. Thank you again and again if you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me.
So that’s my life in a nutshell. There’s been so many other things going on and there is no way I can possibly write about them all but I will do my best to keep providing updates as frequently as I can.
Love Lindsey